As a Geek, I see power tools just a little different than most. I'm excited about the details and which ones have what makes sense instead of just which one is best for the ego. Sure, I like powerful. But I also appreciate it when someone just gets the balance of power and usability right.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Cordless tool battery stability

Cordless tools batteries are simple, right? Well, Matt didn't think so when he was researching this article on cordless tool batteries. There is a lot of information there, but one thing he didn't really address was stability. His article was already pretty long, so that got left out in the interest of getting it published in the first place.

Basics of battery ratings

Cordless tool batteries are measured in Volts and Amp Hours. Volts is the amount of juice at any given moment, while Amp Hours gives reference to how long the battery can last when doing a job. That's about a simple as I can make it. Ok, one more try using a water pipe as a metaphor. Volts is the speed of the flow of the water, Amps is the diameter of the pipe that can be filled, and Amp Hours is the length of time that this flow can be maintained.

What is battery stability?

Since batteries end up having chemistry tied to them, and nobody that isn't wearing a funny white coat really wants to read about chemical reactions, I'll try to keep this more of a high level overview instead of really in-depth.

What it essentially boils down to is that stability is a measure of how many charges the battery can take before a cell goes bad. Based on the chemical makeup of the battery, this can vary quite a bit. This is also where the newer technologies really shine.

Ni-Cad (Nickel-Cadmium)

This is really one of the oldest battery technologies. The chemical makeup is Nickel and Cadmium, which ends up having the worst symptoms from voltage depression. I won't go into the details about voltage depression - you can read it at the provided link if you are interested. What I will say is that the chemical makeup of Ni-Cad means you see the least amount of time between failures in most cases.

Ni-MH (Nickel Metal Hydride)

This is a slightly newer technology, but it still has voltage depression issues. Although the symptoms aren't typically as quick to develop as Ni-Cad, they do exist and still have to be dealt with. But here's the big secret - The higher the Amp Hour rating of the battery, the less stable the chemistry of the battery. Let me repeat that in different language - Longer life per charge (higher Ah rating) means fewer charge cycles before a cell goes bad.

Li-Ion (Lithium Ion)

For power tools, this is the newest technology. This is similar to what cell phones have been using for years, but with much larger cells to give a cordless tool some actual run-time. For example, my cell phone has a 3.7V 1000 mAh battery. The smaller ones on cordless tools right now are 18V with 3000 mAh (3 Ah). That's quite a difference. But what about stability?

When talking about stability in a lithium battery, we're talking about the different chemical makeups. This is different than the concerns with Ni-Cad or Ni-MH batteries. Basically, when the manufacturers were originally attempting to make Li-Ion for power tools, there were many explosions because of chemical instability before anyone got it right.

That's not a big problem any more, but we still see people searching for V28 explosions at times. I don't know if they want video or are just doing research to make sure that they're safe, but either way it sounds like someone heard about some old problems.

Chem Is Try

The fun thing I remember about chemistry from my days at UNL is that Chem Is Try. Nothing ever comes out perfect the first time, and conditions can contribute to unseen problems. This is not only true in skydiving (as the bumper sticker to the right points out), but also in chemistry.

Milwaukee spent over 7 years on R&D for their V28 series of tools. Makita didn't want to spend that long, so they decided to use Sony Li-Ion cells which were being used in other high-demand applications (digital cameras, camcorders, etc.) already. But the point is, the battery chemistry used by these manufacturers has been tested for quite some time now to make sure that the batteries don't go boom. A few of those could cripple their reputation, and in this industry reputation is a powerful ally or an even stronger adversary.

Labels: , , ,

5 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Got any info on building an inverter to power cordless tools when the batteries die? Having to carry both corded and cordless tools is an arsepain, and an inverter that I could run cordless tools from while charging batteries elsewhere woulb be a nice thing to have.

Friday, 04 August, 2006

 
Blogger Brian Mark said...

I think you're asking about a transformer (cord for a battery power tool) and not an inverter (battery running an electric tool). I don't have any info on building one.

DeWALT used to make one for their 24V tools, but it never really caught on. Due to the higher amperage required by cordless tools, a typical transformer can't handle them. That made the DeWALT transformer around $130, which was more than a battery.

Friday, 04 August, 2006

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm not an expert on electricity, but in the pipe analogy isn't voltage the pressure of the water, and amperage the flow? The diameter would be Ohms, since it's inversely proportional to the resistance. Otherwise, it's very informative. Thanks for writing this article!

Wednesday, 11 October, 2006

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

A transformer operates on AC voltage only, so could not be used to power anything that runs on a DC voltage, i.e. a cordless tool. They are used for isolation and to increase or decrease an AC voltage.
An inverter takes DC voltage and converts it to an AC voltage.
A DC power supply typically uses a transformer to reduce 120vac out of the wall socket to a much lower voltage. This is then rectified to a DC voltage. To my knowlege, there is nothing on the market that could conveniently be used to power your tool while the battery recharges. The problems would be cord length and current capability.

Friday, 14 November, 2008

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

To original anonymous poster.

First off, as far as I know, an 'inverter' takes DC in and outputs AC. I think you want to do the opposite.

The easiest way to do what you're saying is to buy an AC adapter, cut the end off, and solder it to the leads of a tool battery that you have (take apart a battery for that tool - ideally a dead one, and use it as a shell). The AC adapter takes AC input from the wall, and converts it to DC output.

Make sure to match the OUTPUT voltage. Make sure the OUTPUT amp rating is EQUAL TO OR GREATER THAN the device.

If the voltage of your adapter is too high, you can fry the device/tool. If the amperage of your adapter is too low, you can fry the adapter. In either of these cases, fires could result.

If the voltage is too low, you could get undesired results that will ultimately damage your tool or device.

Amperage is what the tool draws... I don't know if there are adverse effects in having having an adapter rated for a number of amps that is much higher than the device, as it is my understanding that the actual applied amperage is created by the tool itself (I=V/R).

Power (watts) is IxV, or 'amps' times 'volts', so if you can, it's always best to match them exactly. If you can't match both exactly, MATCH THE VOLTAGE, exactly, and make sure the amps rating of the power supply is HIGHER than that of the tool.

Also remember that all the volts and amps and power stuff is DC. AC adapter takes AC in, and outputs DC. I'm assuming your input is AC, 120v, 50-60Hz. (standard house outlets)

Tuesday, 26 May, 2009

 

Post a Comment

Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home